Is that one of the turn signal wires Ogre is talking about? The harness also has a third brake light wire that I wasn't going to use, could that be used? Thanks again for all the advise. The diagram has a wire from the relay tapping into "existing brake circuit". I am using a 700r4 and got the lockup kit from Bowtie Overdrives. I have thought of another issue that involves the brake wiring. Looks like your setup is what I'm shooting for, is that cleves your e-brake? (did the same thing). My two cents worth -good luck to all -dielectric cleaner on sale near y'all - all lights are present and accounted for. Remember when we all started learning the basics off engines ,first things first ,clean and wash the it has all over it -a cleaner and better ,easier engine rebuilding it back to life again -start at the basics -and then go to your pinched ,cut,melted grounds or white lead hot wires, etc. IF that did not solve any issues at hand ,Now we run the wires for the grounds being most off all the causes I've read over and over. Grounds are the meat off the most trouble I've read in so many blogs -for the older models like mine (1997)-I've really been surprised by most replying, some are seriously good posts too, but rarely do I ever read about first using a good electrical spray cleaner in all the pigtails -sockets to start off with -pull all one at a time and spray all them electrical connectors with purpose. So if things get just too wierd - ck your grounds!Īnother dissatisfied, no working ,battle off the rear lights blinking like my Christmas lights on our home. Went back to that ground again - took it loose - stripped the wire casing back a couple inches and BINGO!!!!!!!! The wire was rotten - Stripped the wire casing back real goodĪnd got to good clean un-rotten wire - took a FILE to the frame rail rust 'till I found bare metal re-attached the ground VERY WELL -no more taillight problems. Thought I had done a thourough job but still no change. Took it loose - did a fair job cleaning the frame surface rust and reconnected it. Looked the wire connections over and came to a ground at the frame near the trailer hitch lead. traced all movements I might have made that might've CAUSED the taillight issues. THEN thought back on what I might have caused when I took the bed off to replace a brake line in Sept. Changed all bulbs (were ONLY 25 yrs old) - Ck'd bulb sockets (all ok) Ck'd fuses and pedal switch - both ok. Only left turn worked - No brake lights - no running rear lights - no flashers - no backup lights. I have been fighting a taillight issue for 2 days. Look at the wires, because if it is not switch and not a bulb-fault, then as TBAS says it is probably wires, pinched or broken, from tail to switch to fusebox.īeen reading about all your various symptoms. IIRC bottom is backup and the top one is brake. Three bulbs: they just pull out but won't want to come easy. Use 1/4 nutdriver to remove 2 screws in rubbery thing. Unhook connector latch and carefully pull out. Flat rubbery thing with connector and 3 lumps. Unscrew, the lens un-hooks on the other side. Open tailgate, there's two (rusted) Phillips screws into the taillight lens. Change the brake lamp bulbs on a vehicle this old it is time to do that.
#Brake light switch wiring harness manual
The Owner's Manual may have clues.įuses usually blow for a reason. It is $5-$10 you might take ALL your truck data to the auto parts store, buy a new switch, then look for the same thing around the brake arm or under the hood. I think on most C/K 1500/2500 it is on the brake pedal arm or the arm hits it. It could also be a relay, the box is located in the engine bay and the relay will be marked, but its unlikely to be the problem. If you are unsure of the wire color associated with brake light function, you can access wiring diagrams online, but be warned, chev/gm have been known to change color codes from time to time. Solder and shrink tube the new wire to these pigtails and give it a test. Find the wire and clip it about 4 inches back too. it will most likely be beside your brake fluid assembly, in a cluster, entering the firewall.
If it was me i would clip the wire at the tail light harness, about 4 inches back, then move to the engine bay and look for the same wire there. If you do find a faulty wire, just run a new one from the engine bay to the back and splice it in. Most spots would be at anchor points, junctions, etc. Running this way leaves them exposed to the elements.Ĭheck along the run for rotted, broken or degraded wire. They run through wire shroud from front to back along the inside of the frame to the left tail light. The most common reason rear lights of any kind will fail is rotted wires.
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